Greetings from San Cristobal (Taos), NM. This week on the High Road to Taos in black and white.
This week I had the pleasure of taking my friend Larry on a photo tour on the High Road. Conditions proved to be very conducive for black and white photography. Larry was using a Canon R5 with a 24-105mm lens and I used my Sony a6400 with an 18-135mm lens along with my iPhone.
Larry got some great pictures while I enjoyed a day out in his company, sharing new locations he hadn’t seen on previous trips. He also added a Pygmy Nuthatch to his “life list” of birds, which we spotted in Amole Canyon.
Church at Las Trampas on the High Road to Taos.
The light in northern New Mexico is outstanding and ominous at times.
Shrine near Placitas.
Chapel belfry, Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Placitas.
Below is the church in Llano de San Juan. It has one of the nicest belfries around, with the big bell exposed and not cloistered behind chicken wire or lattice to keep the pigeons out.
Church belfry in Llano de San Juan, NM.
Grave marker in Las Trampas, photographed by Ansel Adams in the 1940s.
Greetings from San Cristobal and the High Road Village of Llano de San Juan, High Road to Taos.
I’m often on the High Road many times each year. It is a big favorite of my photo tour/workshops. If you want to take a trip back through time, take the High Road to Taos in New Mexico. It is not just a step back in time it’s a giant leap back in time. The villages and hamlets were settled many centuries ago. A lot of what one sees on the High Road to Taos is that old. The village of Las Trampas was settled as far back as the 1750s, and the church, along with an irrigation ditch was built shortly thereafter.
I never tire of a trip on the High Road. It takes me back in time to my first visit there in 1984. Here’s what I wrote about my first impressions of this area in New Mexico.
“In Thanksgiving week 1984 I made my first of many trips to New Mexico. On this occasion, five of us friends set out on a foggy morning from Santa Fe and made our way north on the high road to Taos. The sites and sounds on the streets of Santa Fe soon opened up to the immense vistas of mesas, and beyond to the Taos Volcanic Plateau.
“We passed through the village of Chimayo climbing the hill to Truchas (Spanish for Trout). Rapidly gaining elevation the landscape changed to pristine hills of ponderosa pines and rust-colored tones of scrub oak in the undergrowth. The vast square miles of pine trees in the Carson National Forrest were punctuated by the bare, white highlights of lanky aspen. Through the misty veil of condensation on the window, we were afforded more than a subtle hint of what autumn in the high country of New Mexico might have looked like one month earlier.
“Leaving Truchas for Penasco, the fog set in. The temperature dropped in the sparsely populated, mountain communities of Las Trampas and Picuris. The colder air outside the car became magically enhanced by the aroma of piñon and juniper burning in the fireplaces of scattered homes. At this very moment… sometimes you just know it, the mystery of things unknown and northern New Mexico took a very palpable hold on me.
“Not more than four years later, in the spring of 1988 that hold tightened and I moved to a small adobe building, with two fireplaces, in Talpa, NM, and began stockpiling five cords of wood for what promised to be a cold winter that year…
Llano de San Juan church and old homestead.
Adobe “home” with the church belfry peaking over the roof.
The former Post Office Zip Code 87543.
I extended to myself the liberty to create an old photographic look for the following image. I had an old piece of plexiglass lying around. I took it outside and scratched it up with a sheet of sandpaper, followed by a muddy water bath in the driveway. I took a photo of the plexiglass and inverted the image so that the whites became black, creating dark streaks. I like it and have used it on a few other occasions. Here is another photo I created in the Bosque del Apache.
Old photo grunge technique.
And to end this week’s post is how my day ended last Wednesday with the almost full supermoon rising behind Taos Mountain as seen from the deck.
Full moonrise with Taos Mountain from San Cristobal.
Yesterday I went on a trip with friends on the High Road to Taos. It was a lovely relaxing day with no schedule or plans except to have fun and make images.
We began our day trip in Ranchos de Taos and photographed the iconic Saint Francis Church. It’s easy to lose track of time when photo opportunities abound. When we final regrouped, we headed south, winding our way through the Rio Grande Gorge to Dixon, picking up the High Road in Peñasco, traveling on to Las Trampas, Truchas, then back to Dixon for a late lunch at the Dixon Cooperative Market and Cafe.
Saint Francis Church, San Francisco de Asis.
South through the Rio Grande Gorge brought us to the town of Dixon, where we found these two benches waiting for us in more ways than one.
Benches in Dixon, NM.
Bench back detail, Dixon, NM.
After an hour of wandering around Dixon, we headed to the Picuris Pueblo, (still closed to the public) and on to the church of San Jose de Gracia de Las Trampas in Las Trampas, the ‘place of traps.’
The church of San Jose de Gracia de Las Trampas, NM.
Truchas is a twenty-minute drive south on the High Road to Taos and abounds with fascinating and quirky visuals. Truchas was the setting for the movie of the John Nichols, book Milagro Beanfield War, filmed on location in the mid-1980s and directed by Robert Redford. Below is the Truchas Mission Church, Nuestra Señora del Sagrado Rosario.
Truchas Mission Church, Nuestra Señora del Sagrado Rosario.
The following few images are also located in Truchas, a short walk from the mission church.
House with TV antenna, Truchas, NM.
Hobby Horse in the cool shade of a portal on the High Road to Taos.
Ford F100 in Truchas, NM.
Mobile home, with tv antenna, Truchas, NM.
Before we began our trip, we visited Floras Valley Store in San Cristobal, where my friends came to meet me. I just had to show this sight to them.
Floras Valley Store, San Cristobal, NM.
We ended a fun day and said our farewells back in San Cristobal. I closed my day watching the “Strawberry Moon” rising over Taos Mountain.
Moon and Venus, San Cristobal. I was outside at 6 am with the tripod and camera set up, cuppa tea in hand, ready for one of the last good views of Venus in the dawn light at this time of year. She rises closer to the sun from this point in her orbit. I thought I was ready, as my phone app giving the precise location indicated I would observe the celestial event slightly north of where I had set up. Well, next time I won’t stand so close to my parked vehicle’s magnetic field. I stuffed some hand warmers in my gloves, it was 7º F, and with my tea in hand, I waited. My set up was spot on target. At 6:23 am, coyotes in the village made their announcement loud and very clear across the valley. At 6:24 am, a waning crescent moon peeked over Taos Mountain. At 6:29 am, Venus joined her. This was the most heart-stopping sight that I have seen in a while. Then, around 7 am when my heart started pumping again, when my hand warmers stopped making a difference, I went in and had more tea. Thanks for looking. G
First glimpse of the waning crescent rising after the coyotes singing.Venus appears in an appropriate divot in Taos Mountain.Distant view of the whole scene from the from the garden.Rising in unison, a kind of courtship dance over the mountain.At 7 am when the temperature drops.
High Road to Taos.We made a few images on a short trip to Dixon, in the Rio Grande Valley last week. After exploring Dixon for a couple of hours, we drove a short way up the hill into the Sangre de Cristos Mountains. We passed by Picuris Pueblo, which is still closed for the safety of the tribal members, and stopped at the little chapel of Sagrado Corazón. Then on to the village of Llano de San Juan where we visited some familiar pinto ponies. Black and white seemed an appropriate choice for this particular day. G
Village street in Dixon, NM Shapes and Shadows.Watching the shadows creep along the walls.Chapel of the Sagrado Corazón.Shadows at the Sagrado Corazón Chapel.Pinto Pony, Llano de San Juan.Horse mane, cowlick.
Markings.
Cosmic Future Bus, Llano de San Juan.Cosmic Future Bus.
I hope you enjoyed the tour and my first expanded blog, “Photo/photos of the Week.” As always, Thank you for looking. Stay safe and be well.
The road less traveled in Llano de San Juan on the High Road to Taos
“In Thanksgiving week 1984 I made my first of many trips to New Mexico. On this occasion, five of us friends set out on a foggy morning from Santa Fe and made our way north on the high road to Taos. The sites and sounds on the streets of Santa Fe soon opened up to the immense vistas of mesas, and beyond to the Taos Volcanic Plateau.
“We passed through the village of Chimayo climbing the hill to Truchas (Spanish for Trout). Rapidly gaining elevation the landscape changed to pristine hills of ponderosa pines and rust-colored tones of scrub oak in the undergrowth. Bare white highlights of lanky aspen, punctuated the vast square miles of pine trees in the Carson National Forrest. Through the misty veil of condensation on the window, we were afforded more than a subtle hint of what autumn in the high country of New Mexico might have looked like one month earlier.
“Leaving Truchas for Penasco, the fog set in. The temperature dropped in the sparsely populated, mountain communities of Las Trampas and Picuris. The colder air outside the car became magically enhanced from the aroma of piñon and juniper burning in the fireplaces of scattered homes. At this very moment… sometimes you just know it, the mystery of things unknown and northern New Mexico took a very palpable hold on me.
“Not more than four years later, in the spring of 1988 that hold tightened and I moved to a small adobe building, with two fireplaces, in Talpa, NM and began stockpiling five cords of wood for what promised to be a cold winter that year…
Las Trampas Church San Jose de Gracia, NM
“My wife and I enjoyed a wonderful 3-day photo tour with Geraint Smith in Taos, New Mexico, and surrounding areas. Geraint picked us up at our Airbnb every morning and we toured selected locations that offered a marvelous photographic opportunity. Geraint was very patient and helpful, offering advice on photo techniques to enhance our experience. We enjoyed his enthusiasm for photography, his insights, and the wonderful stories of his own photographic journey. I would highly recommend this Tour to anyone with any photographic experience. The Taos area is full of varied types of photographic interests, and Geraint was eager to accommodate our particular interests.”
–Paul and Judy
Pinto pony in Llano de San Juan, NM
Adobes in Las Trampas, repair on the San Jose Church.
Mural in Penasco on the High Road to Taos, NM
Wooden cross with mountain peaks in Truchas, NM also photographed by Ansel Adams in the 1940s
Locations on this photo tour/workshop include Native and Hispanic villages on the High Road to Taos, Penasco, Las Trampas, and Truchas. The drive back to Taos will take us along the High Road to photograph the light in John Nichols, “Milagro Beanfield” country and the valley of Llano de San Juan.
High Road to Taos
Photo Tour/Workshops
“In Thanksgiving week 1984 I made my first of many trips to New Mexico. On this occasion five of us friends set out on a foggy morning from Santa Fe and made our way north on the high road to Taos. The sites and sounds on the streets of Santa Fe soon opened up to the immense vistas of mesas, and beyond to the Taos Volcanic Plateau.
We passed through the village of Chimayo climbing the hill to Truchas (Spanish for Trout). Rapidly gaining elevation the landscape changed to pristine hills of ponderosa pines and rust-colored tones of scrub oak in the undergrowth. Bare white highlights of lanky aspen, punctuated the vast square miles of pine trees in the Carson National Forrest. Through the misty veil of condensation on the window we were afforded more than a subtle hint of what autumn in the high country of New Mexico might have looked like one month earlier.
Leaving Truchas for Penasco, the fog set in. The temperature dropped in the sparsely populated, mountain communities of Las Trampas and Picuris. The colder air outside the car became magically enhanced from the aroma of piñon and juniper burning in the fireplaces of scattered homes. At this very moment… sometimes you just know it, the mystery of things unknown and northern New Mexico took a very palpable hold on me.
Not more that four years later, in the spring of 1988 that hold tightened and I moved to a small adobe building, with two fireplaces, in Talpa, NM and began stockpiling five cords of wood for what promised to be a cold winter that year.”
I look forward to sharing more of this magical landscape, people and architecture with you.
4 hour half day – $250 – per person.
8 hour day – $450 – per person. This time frame will include travel to chosen locations and shooting with hands on instruction as needed.
12 hour day – $695 per person. This time frame will include travel to chosen locations, shooting with hands on instruction as needed and staying out later for the moon rise or astrophotography, with time in the middle of the day for image review and processing, during lunch.
Year Round – Call 505-501-4880 to reserve a date that suits you for your own personal photo tour.
“My wife and I enjoyed a wonderful 3 day photo tour with Geraint Smith in Taos, New Mexico and surrounding areas. Geraint picked us up at our Airbnb every morning and we toured selected locations which offered marvelous photographic opportunity. Geraint was very patient and helpful, offering advice on photo techniques to enhance our experience. We enjoyed his enthusiasm for photography, his insights and wonderful stories of his own photographic journey. I would highly recommend this Tour to anyone of any photographic experience. The Taos area is full of varied types of photographic interests, and Geraint was eager to accommodate our particular interests.” –Paul and Judy
High Road to Taos, Las Trampas Church, and sky. I spent some time yesterday processing a few more images from that day on the High Road last week. The fast-moving clouds were cooperating to the degree that, during a long exposure, they caused this zoom effect of the movement of the clouds over the front and rear of the church. I could have created the same effect in Photoshop® but as I said the clouds were cooperating so two minutes of exposure on each of the images gave me a nice in-camera image. Less time spent on the computer is a good thing. Thanks for looking. G
Tin roof and the impression of a ladder just of the High Road to Taos, New Mexico. I did a double take when I saw I was looking at the rusty stain where the ladder used to be. Corrugated tin roofing is a mainstay in the mountain villages, a good business to be in back in the day. I love New Mexicana. Thanks for looking. G
High Road to Taos with R David Marks yesterday. Black and White is rubbing off on me on this day out on the High Road to Taos, in the mountains of northern New Mexico. It was a good day, lighting wise to make black and white images and in good company. Thanks for looking. G
A cross at the Penitente Morada in Truchas, a town on the High Road to Taos, northern NM
Ruby’s Garage from the movie, Milagro Bean Field War, by author John Nichols, filmed in Truchas, NM
“Om Shanti”, Wavy Gravy’s bus, parked in a field near Truchas, NM
Dormer windows and solitary cloud, Llano de San Juan, NM
Horse head and mane with dormer windows, steel roof and mountain clouds, Llano de San Juan, on the High Road to Taos
Horse in the shade of the portal in Llano de San Juan on the High Road to Taos
Serpentine roof line on a building (possibly a Morada) in Llano de San Juan, NM
Church of Santo Tomas, (San Jose de Gracia de Las Trampas) Las Trampas, NM, on the High Road to Taos.
Tin roof, in the village of Truchas on the High Road to Taos, NM, juxtaposed with the mission church belfry. The roof and building are gone, but the church of Nuestra Señora del Sagrado Rosario remains, beautifully intact and restored. Truchas is a regular stop on the High Road to Taos photography tour. The town and it’s surroundings are the filming location for Robert Redford’s movie of the John Nichol’s book, “Milagro Beanfield War.” Thanks for looking. G
